Фигурное катание – редчайший спорт, где соревнуются без нашивок с флагом (даже на купальниках художниц ему нашлось место), без порядковых номеров и без спонсорских лейблов.
Образ и характер переданы через костюм, это он раскрывает героя; иногда – настолько откровенно, что судьи вводят ограничения в правилах. Одно из самых резонансных принято летом 1988-го и носит имя суперфигуристки Катарины Витт: «Девушки должны кататься только в юбках, костюм должен закрывать бедра и диафрагму». Международный союз (ISU) добавил эту строчку в регламент, насмотревшись на экстремальные наряды немки, особенно:
• голографическое платье с открытым животом – для короткой программы сезона-1985/86;
• платье с перьями вместо юбки – для короткой программы на Олимпиаде-1988 (подробнее о нем – ниже).
В 1980-е очарованию Витт было невозможно сопротивляться. В медиа ее называли самым красивым лицом социализма – Катарина с улыбкой побеждала на всех турнирах: 4 золота на ЧМ, 6 – на Евро, 2 – на Играх.
Но наследие Катарины – далеко не только титулы, но и образы (зачастую на грани), изменившие имидж фигурного катания.
***
Излишне открытые наряды – основная претензия судей к Витт. Немка действительно недолюбливала стандартные юбки – возможно, из-за неудобства (выступает же Нэтан Чен в водолазках, ему так комфортнее): или заменяла подол на бахрому и перья, или укорачивала низ до символических 10 см. Публика настолько привыкла к смелым образам, что когда Катарина вышла без юбки – лишь в купальнике и кожаной куртке – то вряд ли кто-то был потрясен.
Это номер под Bad от Майкла Джексона – показательный в сезоне-1987/88.
Вообще, все наряды Витт в Калгари-88 – легендарные. Судьи кипели еще до короткой программы: это не платье, а купальник с перьями.
Прессинг начал канадский тренер Питер Данфилд: «Этот костюм – странный и непристойный! Я не знаю, куда там вообще прилично смотреть. Вы видели его со спины? О, это поистине провокационная сторона», – сердился он, имея в виду, разумеется, не спину.
Катарину отбивали олимпийские чемпионки:
• Пегги Флеминг: «Костюм эффектный. Это правда, что для соревнований он на грани фола, но он отражает хореографию и музыку. Это нельзя назвать неприличным – я видела наряды хуже».
• Дороти Хэмилл отвергала предположения, что Витт воздействует на судей – в панели из девяти человек сидели семь мужчин: «Вероятнее, Катарина старается захватить другие сердца. Этот костюм готовили и для ледовых шоу, к одному из которых она присоединится после Олимпиады. Думаю, Катарина думает шире, чем только о влиянии на судей».
Несмотря на жесткую дискуссию, под джаз и в интерпретации Витт дерзкий наряд смотрелся вполне органично – шикарный бродвейский костюм в традициях жанра: ничего лишнего, ничего недостающего. До сих пор это классика и визитка Катарины.
После произвольной немке досталось за эталонную Кармен. Вопросов к длине (и вообще наличию) юбки не возникло – на этот раз судьи замеряли глубину декольте, пусть и приглушенного сеткой. Сейчас это привычный прием: спрятать вырез под сеткой или даже собрать весь костюм из сетки в сочетании с плотной тканью. Но 1980-е лайкра и материалы на ее основе только попали в обиход – публика просто не привыкла к таким декольте.
В ответ на намеки журналистов Витт недоумевала (возможно, искренне): «Кричащая сексуальность? Почему вы об этом спрашиваете? Что здесь такого сексуального?».
***
Исторически заметно стремление Катарины не столько к оголению и соблазну, сколько к эпатажу. Укоротить юбку и пошить прозрачное платье – слишком простой ход, до ужесточенного правила по костюмам это разрешалось хоть каждый сезон. Но немка искала сложносочиненные наряды с множеством деталей, часто – с головным убором (а для показательных номеров – еще и с реквизитом).
По сути, благодаря Витт в фигурном катании зародился тренд на украшения в волосах под костюм: ленты, ободки, цветы – в обеих программах Игр-1988 это тоже заметно. Да и Олимпиаде-1984 в Сараево Витт катала под венгерский Чардаш в национальной рубахе с имитацией сарафана, не забыв про расшитый бисером и стеклярусом чепец.
Катарина погружалась в дизайн костюмов еще на этапе создания, уделяя внимание каждой детали. К такому интересу приучило начало карьеры: «Мне все время приходилось донашивать платья, в которых до меня выступала Аннет Петч. А она получала их после Габи Зейферт и Кристины Эррат. Мне это сильно не нравилось, я подсознательно ждала дня, когда кто-то начнет донашивать костюмы и за мной».
Авторитарный тренер Юта Мюллер выстроила процесс именно так, поэтому Витт на старте карьеры – это короткая, идеологически верная режиму ГДР стрижка и платье, которое уже надевала партнерша по команде.
Порой Катарина – уже со сложившимся имиджем – будто нарочно отвергала ультра-мини и вообще сексуальные костюмы; макси и наглухо закрытые платья ей прекрасно шли.
Больше того – парируя давние обвинения, немка исполняла мужские роли: Робин Гуд в 1994-м, Дон Жуан в 1995-м. Номер с Олимпиады в Лиллехаммере подарил один из самых памятных образов Катарины: «Мне нравится персонаж Робина Гуда, и я сознательно выбрала мужской костюм – не хочу, чтобы меня снова обвиняли в соблазне судей. Хотя этот наряд, наоборот, оставляет больше простора для воображения».
Методы и находки Витт актуальны до сих пор – их адаптируют и применяют на топ-уровне:
• зеленое платье с ЧМ-1987 – Лиза Туктамышева, привет!
• на разрез-сетку с Олимпиады-88 откликнулись Брэди Теннел и Рика Кихира в короткой программе сезона-2019/20.
ISU отменил правило Витт по костюмам в 2003-м – в той части, что касалась юбки: оголять живот и диафрагму по-прежнему нельзя. Но влияние ограничений сохраняется: эпоха эффектных театральных костюмов 80-х так и не вернулась в женскую одиночку – фигуристки осторожничают.
Невозможно представить, чтобы Катарина Витт из сезона в сезон выходила на лед в платье одного и того же фасона, меняя или цвет, или стразы на пайетки. Как отмечают дизайнеры, правило Витт долго держали в уме, когда речь заходила даже о комбинезонах. Хотя ограничения касались конкретно юбки, косвенно пострадали, например, леггинсы (откровенно и снова неприкрыты бедра).
Пол Джинандес, дизайнер, работающий со сборной США: «Дело отчасти в консерватизме – запреты слишком долго давили на всех. Но порой дело и в отсутствии вкуса: никто не хочет попасть в рейтинг отвратительных костюмов вроде Skating Fugly. Поэтому костюмы неминуемо становятся скромнее и проще. Так не ошибешься».
Джеф Биллингс, дизайнер костюмов шоу Stars on Ice: «Все меньше и меньше остается места фантазии, революции. Многие дизайнеры банально идут на компромисс – просто дают фигуристам то, что они просят. Но это все же не самый безысходный период, рано или поздно мир исправится».
***
Витт завершила карьеру, оставив множество культовых образов и приемов, но не прекратив эпатаж: съемка в Playboy (естественно, вовсе без костюма), работа на ТВ, выпуск коллекции украшений. Удивительно, но в дизайнеры костюмов для фигурного катания немка так и не пришла. А было бы здорово – пора встряхнуть мир одинаковых платьев.
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